The Enlightenment Stage of the Shikoku Henro is when pilgrims might lose heart, question their efforts, feel too pooped, even ill, or just decide to head for the Road to Santiago where it seems the pilgrims drink and eat all day. At the temples, Henro always recite a Heart Sutra, a 278 word summary of Buddha’s teachings, to reinforce their spiritual goals, and refire flagging spirits. It might be equated to the Bible in a nutshell, if that is possible. All this is in readiness for the coming Nirvana.
If Enlightenment is to relinquish all yearnings, such as for that Lawson’s custard cream doughnut, I am still trying to figure how to be enlightened, as an earthly being on an earth that God gave us. Especially being in Japan, how can I not feel earthly joy! I am trying to turn this into a spirituality. I tried hard at the last chance temples for Enlightenment in Imabari and Saijo. I did come about 0.1% close, but strangely, it was at the temple I didn’t actually get to. The one that got away.
Senyū-ji Temple 58 appealed to me because of its mountaintop location. The tourist office told me to take a taxi, but of course I knew better. The map said 45 minutes on foot to get there – piece of cake! As I walked up steep forested narrow trails, I passed a still lake, crumbs of old henro markers, and tombstones I read later were those of dead pilgrims. This trail took me across two roads (I think), and then a big main road. Was it there? Of course not.
Those trails I was following only led me across roads that were going up the mountain. I could see the Temple rooftops still a speck, a spot, up the mountain top. I had already been hoofing it for well over three hours walking to two previous temples. Whoever said it was 45 minutes to Temple 58 lied.
This was my near enlightenment. I came so close yet it was too far. Old Tiger turned back quite happily with no regret, or hatred for my old body. I was relinquishing what didn’t actually matter, the earthly reasons to foolishly forge on for the sake of stubborn pride and the shame of defeat. I tremendously enjoyed walking the forested trails. This was enough.
I have been a henro for about 6 weeks now. I actually can’t imagine not being one. Optimistically, this might be me reaching enlightenment. Of sorts. Maybe this experience will bring me to a semblance of Nirvana. Another 0.1%?
The Shikoku Henro is a tough cookie for an old tiger, I can tell you that. Even swanning in by public transport, there are frustrations, disappointments, physical aches, all part of the journey. So where is Nirvana? Waiting in Kagawa, the next stage.
